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Refinery29

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    South Sudanese women are ruling the fashion and beauty industries right now, from the runways in Paris to billboards in Times Square and even the Victoria's Secret Fashion Show. Flashback a few decades, and the women of South Sudan rarely saw themselves in ads for makeup or designer clothes. But models like Alek Wek and her niece Ajak Deng, refugees who escaped the country's long and brutal civil war, opened the door for women like Duckie Thot, a South Sudanese-Australian model who was recently named an ambassador for L'Oréal Paris, and Nyma Tang, an influencer with almost one million subscribers.

    Now, they're using their platforms to advocate for others, and bring much needed representation to an industry that has long excluded them. "I’m glad we’re at a point where I can see other women that look like me — that aren’t only me — modeling," Thot tells Refinery29. "The fashion and beauty industry has such an influence on everything happening today. To feel like you can see yourself, it’s the most important thing."

    Beauty brands aren't just hiring these models to show off their existing makeup; they're also taking the time to formulate new pigmented products and rich base shades that work for them. And that's clear from the range of beauty products the women ahead are loving for fall. There are lipstick and eyeshadow shades that blaze against dark skin, a sunscreen that doesn't leave a white cast, and, of course, foundations that blend seamlessly into brown skin.

    Ahead, four South Sudanese models and influencers tell us more about their approach to beauty and the makeup products they're buying right now.

    At Refinery29, we’re here to help you navigate this overwhelming world of stuff. All of our market picks are independently selected and curated by the editorial team. If you buy something we link to on our site, Refinery29 may earn commission.

    Nyma Tang
    @nymatang

    Tang's "The Darkest Shade" series on YouTube, in which she tests out the darkest foundations and concealers from popular makeup brands, has become the go-to resource for women with deep skin tones. "I started wearing makeup when I was older, like 21, and that's when I started realizing that there's really not much out there for me," she tells Refinery29. "When I first started, I had only five or six foundations that would work."

    So, the Texas native made it her goal to find foundations for her complexion and share them with her nearly 800,000 subscribers. "Now, I've almost doubled that number with products that actually work. I think a lot of companies are playing catch up, and we still need those sculpting products, bronzers and contour powders, and eyeshadows to be more inclusive and dark skin-friendly."

    "I'm obsessed with the NARS Naturally Radiant Foundation. I use the shade Mali. It gives a really equal balance between my chest and my face, and I don't feel like I'm wearing a mask."



    NARS Natural Radiant Longwear Foundation, $49, available at NARS

    "I use a Supergoop primer sunscreen — I love that it does both in one. Also, there's no flashback, which is important. People think that since you have melanin in your skin, you don't need sunscreen. No, you still need it. There's so much misinformation out there about darker skin and sun protection."



    Supergoop! Unseen Sunscreen Broad Spectrum SPF 40, $32, available at Sephora

    "For lips, I can't leave the house without a good nude. I use the Bite Beauty French Press Lip gloss — it's so chocolaty and warm."



    Bite Beauty French Press Lip Gloss, $22, available at Sephora

    "I take Fenty Stunna with me if I want to be extra. It's red, and I just love red. I love Sephora's Always Red — that's my favorite, besides my own MAC lipstick."



    MAC Cosmetics Lipstick / Nyma Tang, $18.5, available at mac cosmetics

    "I've been using the new Kat Von D eye pencil and MAC's Stud one. For me, you have to be careful with brow products. The pigment has to hit the balance between black and brown — too black and it's harsh, too brown and it doesn't show up on my skin."



    MAC Cosmetics Brow Sculpt, $21, available at mac cosmetics

    "For highlighter, I love the Dior Nude Air Luminizer. This one is so natural and doesn't beam off my face. Because of my skin tone, I can't really get that sculpted cheekbone look because there isn't makeup that can give me that — unless I do reverse contouring."



    Dior Diorskin Nude Air Luminizer Powder, $56, available at Nordstrom

    Aweng Mayen Chuol
    @awengofficial

    As a young girl, Chuol embarked on a project to find beautiful women with dark skin like her in ads around South Sudan. "I went on a hunt to find girls that were my shade, girls from my country, girls that could be me and I could be them. I found probably four — and that was after going through almost six different nearby towns." Finally, instead of looking outward for self-acceptance, she discovered it in her own home. "When I was growing up, I had my mother as my muse, and I wanted to be her beauty. Society never allowed me to see myself reflected until a few years later."

    And while Chuol is happy that dark skin is becoming a norm and not an exception, she does think that South Sudanese beauty is more diverse than what we see in media. "One of the most infuriating misconceptions is that people tend to put this slogan on South Sudanese all being 'very dark,'" she says. "South Sudanese come in many different appearances and are still South Sudanese."

    "The one foundation that I love is Fenty Pro Filt'r Foundation in the shade 490. It is my exact shade, and it tends to last throughout my entire day. I was so happy when Rihanna announced that she would be releasing a makeup line. I believe that it was needed — a line that had my shade, was cruelty-free, and I could easily access."



    FENTY BEAUTY BY RIHANNA Pro Filt'r Soft Matte Longwear Foundation, $34, available at Sephora

    "I love the Fenty matte lipstick in the shade Ma'Damn. I feel like red complements my skin so much. When it comes time for me to glam up, I always tend to grab the closest red lipstick."



    FENTY BEAUTY BY RIHANNA Mattemoiselle Plush Matte Lipstick , $18, available at Sephora

    Duckie Thot
    @duckieofficial

    Thot has been walking the international runways for a while, but this year she's really hit her stride. After appearing in ads for Fenty Beauty and Pat McGrath Labs, the 22-year-old signed a contract with one of the biggest global cosmetics brands, L'Oréal Paris, and she'll be walking in the Victoria's Secret Fashion Show this fall.

    She's come a long way since hanging Naomi Campbell posters in her bedroom. "It’s important to feel like you are being seen when you're growing up as a young girl; it's part of development and it helps you with your confidence. I hope that, [when young girls see me] they get that confidence that they are beautiful and that they can be whatever they want to be."

    "I always keep a foundation on me. It’s no shade to the makeup artists or anything like that — it's just that every single day, it’s a different team and you can never be too safe. But many times, makeup artists will introduce me to products that I like and it photographs just as well.

    "I mix my foundations, and there are a few brands that I absolutely love. One of my favorites is NW58 [by MAC], and Fenty. There’s also a Lancôme one that I really like as well."



    Lancôme Teint Idole Ultra Long Wear Foundation, $47, available at Sephora

    "I definitely like a red lip. I just did a Rouge Signature commercial with L'Oréal, and that's my new favorite red lipstick." (Rouge Signature is only available internationally, but it's launching stateside in 2019.)



    L'Oréal Infallible Pro-Matte Liquid Lipstick, $9.99, available at Ulta Beauty

    "I keep it simple: Beautiful, glowy skin and gloss on the eyelids. That is a secret makeup trick that I use, especially when I don’t know what else to do. I go with a heavy gloss on my eyelids so it reflects nicely. I might put a little on my cheeks to highlight them and give [me] an extra glow."



    FENTY BEAUTY BY RIHANNA Gloss Bomb Universal Lip Luminizer, $34, available at Sephora

    "I love the Volume Million Lashes mascara. It just makes [my eyes] pop without putting any color on."



    L'Oreal Paris L’Oreal Paris Voluminous Million Lashes Mascara, $7.97, available at Amazon

    Nyakim Gatwech
    @queennyakimofficial

    You've probably noticed Gatwech with her rainbow-colored hair in the pages of magazines or on your Instagram feed. The woman loves all things neon, because the vibrant shades pop against her dark skin — but she wasn't always so confident in her looks. It was the success of stars like Lupita Nyong'o and Alek Wek that made her realize her true beauty. "South Sudanese beauty means confidence and acceptance. We are darkest complexion in the world, and it's hard for some people to see themselves as beautiful as any light-skin woman out there," she says. "It's beautiful and unique, but to get to that stage is not easy."

    And even though she has embraced her beauty — and so has the fashion industry — she still experiences colorism. She tells Refinery29, "The saddest thing is that some kids will cry and run away. Moms should teach that there are people out there just like you, but with different skin color. When people come up to me and ask about my complexion, I love to talk to them."

    "I don’t have a product to contour my face; I just do it with eyeshadow. I use Juvia’s Place, which is really pigmented. I use a little bit of the black and put a little foundation on it — that is what I use to contour."



    Juvia's Place The Saharan Palette, $18, available at Juvia's Place

    "I was the face of this lipstick by Annabel Cosmetics in Canada. They have so many different shades. I like Rita, which is a bright orange, and Kelly, that's a bright pink."



    Annabelle EDGE LIPSTICK, $9.94, available at Annabelle

    "When I started wearing makeup, I would go to Walgreens and the darkest you had was three shades lighter than me. If you look at me in high school, I look ridiculous. I had to get a brown eyeshadow and use it as foundation. I just discovered True Match by L’Oréal, and it is perfect for me. It doesn’t have [much] coverage, but the shade is really dark."



    L'Oreal Paris L'Oréal Paris True Match Foundation , $6.2, available at Amazon

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    If you're already crafting an excuse to skip out on your friend's boyfriend's Halloween house party so that you can stay in with a bottle of Cabernet and a steamy bubble bath, the real holiday season has come early. Sure, that costume party might be fun for a couple hours, but will it leave you with baby soft skin that smells like a warm gingerbread cookie? No, it will not.

    Luckily, for those of us who prioritize seasonal R&R over social interaction, Lush gets it. On October 5, our favorite shop for fun, fizzy bath balls and homemade shampoo bars dropped its full holiday bath and body collection — and it's everything a bath lover could dream of.

    Not only are the newest limited-edition bath bombs more mesmerizing than last year, the scents — like zesty cranberry, golden pear, and spicy gingerbread — are especially mouthwatering. Not to mention, many of the soaps, lotions, and body sprays are both eco-friendly and give back to a good cause.

    Ahead, shop our favorite picks from the just-launched Lush holiday line, because we're pretty sure the chic golden pear soap will sell out fast.

    At Refinery29, we’re here to help you navigate this overwhelming world of stuff. All of our market picks are independently selected and curated by the editorial team. If you buy something we link to on our site, Refinery29 may earn commission.

    Lush's most ethical offering comes in the form of a Naked Charity Pot (great name, right?), which is a solid hand and body lotion infused with sustainably sourced ingredients. For example, the organic cocoa butter in the pot comes from a community agriculture project based in the Democratic Republic of Congo. Possibly the best part of the deal is that Lush donates 100% of the Charity Pot proceeds — that's every cent of the $9.94 you pay — to grassroots organizations working to support human rights, animal welfare, and environmental conservation across the world. That's goodwill plus soft skin.



    Lush Charity Pot Naked Body Lotion, $9.94, available at Lush

    The cult-favorite Sleepy line — the insomnia-curing lavender lotion Lushies flip over — has been reimagined in a waste-free shower cream form.



    Lush Sleepy Naked Shower Gel, $9.94, available at Lush

    Every year, Lush's pink and white Snow Fairy fizzy bath bomb is a best seller — mostly because people like that it makes their bathtub smell like a cotton candy machine. Now in industrial body spray form, Lushies can have that pink sugary scent anywhere within a nozzle's reach.



    Lush Snow Fairy Body Spray, $29.95, available at Lush

    This sweet golden pear deserves a home on your prettiest seasonal soap dish.



    Lush Golden Pear Soap, $8.94, available at Lush

    This adorable gingerbread man looks like he just popped out of mom's oven, and smells like it too. The sparkly solid body butter has been infused with the exact same baking spices that give your favorite holiday cookies that sweet cinnamon flavor.



    Lush Gingerbread Man Sparkle Jar, $8.94, available at Lush

    This ornamental bath bomb has all the things: bright pink, polka dots, a festive sprig of mistletoe on top. Just imagine what will happen to your bath water when you plop this guy in there.



    Lush Luxury Lush Pud, $6.95, available at Lush

    This silver star bath melt may look a little ho-hum at first glance. But the rainbow of swirling bright colors hidden inside is out of this world.



    Lush Star Light Star Bright Bath Melt, $8.94, available at Lush

    Now you can get the same seasonal, tangy flavor of a cranberry fizz in an exfoliating lip scrub. We'll still take our cranberry and gin on the rocks, and we'll have soft lips while we're sipping.



    Lush Cranberry Fizz Lip Scrub, $7.95, available at Lush

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    So, You Want To Get A Bob...

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  • 10/05/18--09:20: So, You Want To Get A Bob...
  • So, you want to get a bob. Who doesn't these days, right? Bella Hadid, Rowan Blanchard, Tessa Thompson — they've all got 'em, why shouldn't you? But like lipsticks or foundations, bobs are not a one-size-fits-all sort of deal. Instead, you've got to find what works for you, your routine, and your hair type.

    To navigate the perfect bob haircuts, we turned to two top hairstylists for their expert opinions: Leanne Citrone, co-owner and stylist at Andy Lecompte Salon in Los Angeles, and Jon Reyman, founder of bicoastal salon Spoke & Weal. Both Citrone and Reyman categorize the trendy length as a shock-proof cut that won't leave you in tears, and might even inspire you to try more risk-tasking lengths in the future. Reyman likes to call it the "gateway drug" to different, more dramatic cuts.

    And how do you know if you should take the plunge? "When you're ready, you're ready," says Citrone. Sound like you? Ahead, all the answers — and inspo — you need.

    If you have: long, chunky layers.
    Try: a soft, A-line bob.

    Layers can be a trap when you have long hair: Not only do they require a lot of styling to look good, but they can easily make you think you need length to pull off a lived-in, bedhead-y style. The solution? "Bring up the length so the bottom layers live closer to the shortest layer, so it has a stronger perimeter line," Reyman says. "It's a big step, but you will still be able to get that messy, lived-in look."

    Photo: Jean Baptiste Lacroix/Getty Images.

    Translation: Have your stylist chop off your long layers and leave the shorter ones. The result will be fairly low-shock, since you'll be able to pull off the same styles, minus the "mullet-y" back that heavily layered long hair can have, Reyman explains.

    Photo: Sonia Moskowitz/ Getty Images.

    Millie Bobby Brown's bob is the best example for making one single-length cut work for a long time.

    Photo: Paul Zimmerman/WireImage.

    For some people, the shorter the better. If you're ready for the big chop, go all out and opt for an A-line while you're at it. Ask your stylist to bring your length up an inch shorter in the back, like Jourdan Dunn's cropped bob. When styled, you'll be left with some face-framing volume and an edgy finished look.

    Photo: Jeff Spicer/WireImage.

    The biggest bonus of having a bob: It takes less time to style, which means you can rock an '80s brush-back with ease and just one product ( lots of mousse).

    Photo: Steve Granitz/WireImage.

    Once your layers are chopped and even, you're set for months with a low-maintenance style that easily transforms into an effortless lob.

    Photo: Paul Bruinooge/Patrick McMullan/Getty Images.

    If you have: sleek, one-length hair.
    Try: a bob with strong fringe.

    A long, one-length look is often the byproduct of avoiding any kind of cut or trim, Reyman notes, but it's still one of the most striking ways to wear long hair. Therefore, you need something that will be just as arresting — like Kat Graham's blunt, baby fringe — to allow you to continue wearing your hair as an accessory.

    Photo: Christian Vierig/Getty Images.

    "You could play it safe with a lob," Citrone says, "but a really sharp, straight bob with bangs is dramatic and beautiful." This cut will give you the same look-at-me effect as your long, swingy strands, while the bangs will maintain that mysterious long-hair quality you love.

    @riawna

    Constance Wu's longer bob proves that even a grown-out, shoulder-grazing cut is just as striking as something that just sits below the chin.

    Photo: J. Merritt/Getty Images.

    Depending on your texture, this cut will likely require the same amount of styling, but no new techniques, so lazy girls and hair novices alike will be happy.

    Photo: Jon Kopaloff/Getty Images.

    Blunt bobs are way more versatile than you think, and they work best when you let your natural texture be free. This look on Yara Shahidi may only be wig, but the effect is just as powerful. (And yes, curly hair girls can rock bangs.)

    If Zendaya's Joan of Arc-inspired bob doesn't prove this blunt cut is a power move (BDE, if you will), we don't know what will.

    Photo: ANGELA WEISS/AFP/Getty Images.

    If you have: one-length hair with a few face-framing layers.
    Try: a sharp, blunt bob.

    Good news for anyone who has a few face-framing layers on their generally one-length cut: You'll transition beautifully to a sharp, blunt lob. Why? While a blunt cut can be startling for anyone, the length of this chop will frame your face even better than your layers do and give you the thick, one-length look you like.

    Thanks to celebrity hairstylist Kristin Ess, Lauren Conrad often goes shorter and shorter every time she visits the hair guru. Keeping a few layers for volume, Ess made sure to make the bottom layer of hair as blunt as possible for the coolest take on last year's raddest trend.

    If you haven't heard, bobs — like Jenny Slate's — are metaphorically a kick to the patriarchy's ass. The Venom actress told Nylon that her above-the-shoulder cut was all thanks to a moment of self-realization. “I looked at myself in the mirror and thought, I actually don’t know why I have long hair," she recalled. "But then I was like, I do know why I have long hair: Because I heard a man — who I was actually kind of afraid of — say he didn’t find women with short hair attractive. It made me feel sad.” So, she cut it, and it's easily her best look yet.

    Photo: Jon Kopaloff/FilmMagic.

    Jessica Chastain's layered lob proves that a trusted air-dry routine can do a style some good. Ditch the hot tools and you'll really get to see what your natural texture can do.

    Like most celebrities these days, Hailey Baldwin loves a textured bob — and her latest, which sits just above the collarbone, is no exception.

    Photo: Steve Granitz/WireImage.

    To ease into it, Citrone suggests you cut hair just past the collarbone and keep it a little longer in the front. "That way it's still long enough for a topknot, but it's still short and cool," he explains. Our favorite example: Pippa Middleton's summery lob.

    Photo: Karwai Tang/WireImage.

    If you have: long, mermaid waves.
    Try: a chin-length, A-line bob.

    For many — definitely not all — having long, Victoria's Secret -inspired waves is all about feeling sexy. And a textured cut that hits the chin will deliver that same feeling with even more volume.

    Photo: Ethan Miller/Getty Images.

    "Nineties is the new old Hollywood," Jen Atkin, who usually styles Bella Hadid, told us at a Bulgari party with the model in Rome. "Spread the word." Indeed, this short and sharp one-length bob reminds us of decades past — in a good way.

    Photo: Stephane Cardinale/Corbis/Getty Images.

    Looking for lightweight movement even if your hair is crazy thick? Copy Rowan Blanchard's new style for the cool-girl cut of the moment.

    Sometimes, you can turn down the volume. Tessa Thompson didn't add lots of waves to her bob — instead, she slicked back her hair and added a deep side part.

    PHOTO: J. MERRITT/GETTY IMAGES.

    Kelly Rowland is a master at switching up her short, chin-length hair, but this simple, sleek blowout with a center part is one of our favorite looks on her.

    Photo: Via @kellyrowland.

    Part your jaw-skimming bob in the center, and you've got an instantly sleek look — just like J.Lo at the Billboard Music Awards. Whether you go straight or keep your natural texture, this look works for anyone.

    Photo: Matt Baron/REX/Shutterstock.

    If you need any more reason to finally take a leap of faith and ditch your dead ends, look to To All the Boys I've Loved Before actress, Lana Condor. The breakout star cut off her signature hair for a choppy bob complemented by soft, messy layers.

    "This is for people who are ready for a big cut," Citrone says, adding that the best way to wear it is with the waves tucked behind one ear, like Dua Lipa.

    Want more proof that it can work for you? Check out how versatile and sexy this look is on Rihanna. Try it for yourself and you can expect less daily styling — and tons of compliments.

    Photo: Steve Granitz/Getty Images.

    If you have: long layers.
    Try: a shaggy lob with a side-swept fringe.

    A shag will give you lots of movement and shape, which is the hallmark trait of a long cut with layers, Reyman says. Then, if you'd like, add side-swept bangs for a bit of interest. This cut allows you to style your hair smooth and voluminous or with some texture spray for something more modern, like Dakota Johnson. Be sure that your stylist "thins the bangs" so you can part them on the side, Reyman advises.

    Photo: Jon Kopaloff/FilmMagic/ Getty Images.

    Seriously, don't sleep on the addition of some cheek-grazing bangs. Not only do they flatter your cropped cut while rocking a middle part, but push them to the side and you've got a sleek and sophisticated style in seconds.

    Photo: Steve Granitz/WireImage.

    Those with fine hair can benefit from a slightly more blunt finish at the ends, which will still provide movement, but will also make hair appear fuller.

    Photo: Frazer Harrison/Getty Images.

    And if your hair is of the thicker variety, like Priyanka Chopra's, the shaggy, blunt ends also look killer.

    Photo: Gilbert Carrasquillo/GC Images.

    If: all of these cuts are still giving you anxiety.
    Try: a softly layered, mid-length lob.

    Still scared of the scissors? Don't worry, we didn't forget about you. Like Reyman says, the classic lob is the gateway drug to shorter cuts. But "the best thing about the lob is that it becomes a haircut and a style," he says, which means that it can be styled in any way and still feels fresh and modern. And, most importantly, you can still pull it into a ponytail or a bun. (And if for some reason you hate it, the grow-out process won't be nearly as painful.)

    Photo: Kevin Mazur/WireImage.

    Reyman suggests you ask for some light layers so you can wear it wavy (his preferred look with a lob), and because it makes air-drying easier, no matter your texture. "A lob makes any hair more pliable and gives you tons of options; it's versatile," he says. "Just make sure that whoever cuts it is able to manage your length and your density."

    A short bob transitions seamlessly into this longer length, which looks gorgeous with beachy waves.

    Photo: Mychal Watts/Getty Images.

    Piecey waves with a side part and maybe a little texture spray — this cut can take you from a casual lunch to a fancy dinner with no extra effort.

    Photo: Dave Benett/FFR/Getty Images.

    A-list celebrity hairstylist Sunnie Brook gave Elisabeth Moss this gorgeous lob — and we're so here for it. A deep side part and loose, beachy waves make this cut look elegant and alluring.

    @sunniebrook

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    Ivanka's schedule has not been made public, so each week, we will do our best to cover the public events and forums she attends, the meetings she has with lawmakers and government officials, and her social media presence.

    Monday, October 1

    Ivanka was silent on social media.

    Tuesday, October 2

    Ivanka praised her father's administration scoring a new trade deal with Canada and Mexico. She gave a special shoutout to her husband Jared Kushner.

    "Your vision, conviction and persistence will deliver better jobs, higher wages and greater opportunities for American workers while increasing prosperity in the Western Hemisphere," she wrote.

    Wednesday, October 3

    Ivanka spent Wednesday visiting relief sites across North Carolina, which was hit by Hurricane Florence and its subsequent historical floods last month. She met with people displaced by the storm and volunteers at the recovery sites in the Mooresville area. She also spend time with members of the Mooresville Fire Department's search and rescue team, which played an important role in the immediate aftermath of the hurricane. While in North Carolina, Ivanka took the time to visit the NASCAR Technical Institute to push the workforce initiative from the Trump administration.

    Her husband also got a second shoutout on Twitter. "Proud of you, Jared!" Ivanka wrote in response to a short post thanking him for collaborating on the administration's trade deal.

    There were also reports that Ivanka privately told her father that while she thinks Dr. Christine Blasey Ford had the right to be heard about the sexual misconduct allegations against Judge Brett Kavanaugh, she thought the nominee is a "good man."

    Thursday, October 4

    Ivanka shared a video of her visit to North Carolina on Instagram. She wrote: "I was inspired by the resilience of the people and their commitment to helping one another."

    She also praised the bipartisan effort to pass the Better Utilization of Investments Leading to Development (BUILD) Act, a $60 billion foreign development bill.

    "Congratulations to legislators (on both sides of the aisle) for working together to pass the # BUILDAct," she tweeted. "This important legislation furthers the Admin’s commitment to reforming US development finance institutions + catalyzing private sector investment in emerging economies."

    Friday, October 5

    Ivanka celebrated the Labor Department's monthly hiring and unemployment figures, using the hashtag #Winning.

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    Here's a conundrum that would give Joseph Heller pause: You can use eye cream to tackle your dark circles and fine lines, or you can use concealer to cover them. But if you use the eye cream, you won't get instant gratification, and if you use the concealer, you won't get long-term results.

    Of course, you could, technically, use both. But then that's an entire extra step to reckon with in your routine, and god, what a hassle that would be — especially when beauty brands have devised some very convenient ways to combine the two.

    Click-pen illuminating concealers laced with moisturizing ingredients to swipe on skin care and swipe away dark circles in one single brush stroke, pots of pearl-infused cream with an added boost of pigment to color correct as you hydrate: These formulas are the best of both worlds, if one world is having good skin in the future and the other is having good skin five minutes from now. Ahead, seven easy ways to turn that double bind into a win-win...

    If all you need is a little tint to even things out, this skin-smoothing treatment should be enough. If you need a little more than "a little tint," its lightweight texture — which is somewhere in between a cream and a light mousse — acts like a primer under concealer to make it go on better and last longer, while retinyl palmitate (a retinol derivative), ascorbyl glucoside (a vitamin C derivative), and antioxidant-rich grape-seed extract work to improve fine lines and darkness over time.



    Kiehl's Youth Dose Eye Treatment, $39, available at Kiehl's

    The five-star reviews from discerning Sephora customers don't lie — this new launch has a hell of a lot going for it. With a unique smoothing texture that provides complete coverage for fine lines, dark circles, and blemishes, and an innovative formula that incorporates Persian silk tree extract and a lipid called palmitoyl glycine to diminish the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, it's got everything you need for a visible skin refresh in twist-up wand form. (Plus, 16 shades make it suitable for a wide range of skin tones.)



    Charlotte Tilbury Magic Away Concealer, $32, available at Sephora

    Yes, you should be wearing SPF under your eyes during the day, and yes, you should probably start sooner rather than later. This creamy, tinted hybrid makes it easy, combining SPF 30 protection from zinc oxide with wrinkle-reducing peptides, nourishing shea butter, soothing bisabolol, and a sheer universal tint that does enough, but not the most, for a believable just-slept-10-hours effect.



    PCA Skin Sheer Tint Eye Triple Complex Broad Spectrum SPF 30, $65, available at DermStore

    In addition to brightening and concealing even the most severe (like, closed-down-the-bar severe) under-eye circles and puffiness with one flick of the brush, this lightweight liquid formula fits as easily into a sleek clutch as it does a random canvas tote bag of unknown origin filled with your debit card, keys, five lip balms, and a bunch of crumpled-up receipts at the bottom.



    Clé de Peau Beauté Radiant Corrector for Eyes, $65, available at Neiman Marcus

    It only comes in three shades, but despite appearances, this genius color corrector/eye cream hybrid blends seamlessly into every skin tone (from the fairest of fair to the deepest of deep) as if by magic. The accompanying instructions are very particular: Smooth a tiny rice-grain-sized dot under each eye, like a moisturizer, then pat gently to set the color, like a concealer. You'll get the perfect amount of coverage, instant results, and more bang for your 48 bucks.



    Tatcha The Pearl Tinted Eye Illuminating Treatment, $48, available at Sephora

    Fans of the brand's original CC cream already know — that full-coverage claim is legit. This formula, which is on the thicker side, packs in hyaluronic acid, hydrolyzed collagen, aloe, peptides, antioxidants, and more, along with hardcore concealing power and a formidable SPF 50. (Also not to be missed: the fact that the cooling applicator tip boasts a proprietary feature known as Cold Spoon Technology.)



    It Cosmetics CC+ Eye Color Correcting Full Coverage Cream, $29, available at It Cosmetics

    The very definition of a one-and-done, this multitasking concealer juggles instant brightening with known hydrating and de-puffing ingredients like caffeine, cranberry-seed oil, and hyaluronic acid, all in the silkiest, most blendable formula that leaves skin looking just like (healthy, luminous, perfected) skin.



    Elcie Cosmetics Complete Remedy Silque Concealer, $28, available at Elcie Cosmetics

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    Welcome toMoney Diaries , where we're tackling what might be the last taboo facing modern working women: money. We're asking millennials how they spend their hard-earned money during a seven-day period — and we're tracking every last dollar.

    We're going on book tour for our new book, Money Diaries: Everything You've Ever Wanted to Know About Your Finances... and Everyone Else's. Next stop: Dallas on Tuesday, October 9! Grab your tickets here!

    To celebrate World Teachers' Day on October 5, Refinery29 is publishing a special theme week of Money Diaries featuring teachers from across America. Today, we have a teacher who makes $36,000 per year and spent some of her back-to-school money on markers. We asked the OP some questions regarding her back-to-school spending, and here's what she had to say:

    "I spent about $100 at the start of the year, however I will continue spending money on my classroom as the year goes on when I replenish supplies. I also sponsor a club, so when we host our Christmas party and other events, I will have to shell out for supplies for those.I can expect to spend up to $500 by the time the year is over.

    "At the beginning of the year, I bought supplies like markers, colored pencils, construction paper, etc. Yes, I am a high school teacher, but I still like to work in as creative an environment as possible! I also make a pretty elaborate bulletin board in my classroom each year because I think it's fun (maybe I should be an elementary school teacher? I don't know) so I bought supplies to put that together. I also bought notebooks for students who couldn't afford them, and I keep a snack stash because I often have kids asking for them because they're hungry. Of course not all of them are food insecure, but I still like being able to hook them up, so I make sure to have snacks on hand.

    "A lot of people think high schoolers are insane, hormonal bullies, and they definitely can be! But when they're not being giant pains, they are hilarious and smart and generous. It's those moments of laughter and connection that help you remember what is so great about them during the times they're making you want to bang your head against a wall (like when they are misbehaving because it's raining, or it's not raining and so that's exciting, or it's a full moon, or there's an assembly later, or it's an early release, or someone makes a funny noise, and on and on)."

    Occupation: Teacher
    Industry: Education
    Age: 23
    Location: Missouri
    Salary: $36,000
    Paycheck Amount (Monthly): $2,303

    Monthly Expenses
    Rent: $600
    Student Loan Payment: $0 (We paid off my student loans in a lump sum using my husband's savings so we wouldn't have to pay interest.)
    Internet: $79
    Phone: $80
    Car Insurance: $128
    Rental Insurance: $11
    Utilities: $35
    Water: $25
    Savings: $500, plus anything we can put in from my husband's paycheck. He's a PhD student, so he is not making much. We use his salary to contribute to savings and fully pay off our credit card bill each month so we don't carry a balance.

    Day One

    7 a.m. — I wake up way earlier than I usually do on the weekend. Most of the time I try to squeeze every moment of sleep I can out of weekend mornings to recuperate before another week, but I am actually glad to be awake. I use this unexpected time to jump in the shower before Mass. My husband, C., comes to find me, and is surprised that I'm awake this early.

    10 a.m. — After eating a breakfast of toast and strawberry preserves, I wander into our guest bedroom that doubles as my husband's office to inquire about his plans for the day. He is pounding away at his keyboard, doing research for his dissertation. He usually sets aside his work on weekends to spend time with me, but he also likes to capitalize on my sleeping time to work a bit. We debate going to Mass, but a slow start to the day just sounds nice. We decide to wait and go on Tuesday evening instead if he can make it back from teaching in time.

    1 p.m. — Our two dogs are out of pretty much everything they need, so we head to Walmart to restock the doggy staples. We buy dog food, flea chews, and tick spray. Living out in the country means they pick up unsavory critters quite frequently and, after much trial and error, I have found that these medicines do the trick. Still, the flea chews are pricey: 30 chews for $54. I give each dog half a chew three times a week, which makes them last longer. Our dogs are small. We also grab some stuff for my husband, including deodorant and a planner, since he will start teaching at his college soon and one of his goals is to be more organized. $100

    2 p.m. — After Walmart, we hit up Aldi for groceries for the week. We may live in a small town (and, in my case, teach in an even smaller, adjacent one!) but there's an Aldi, so when I start missing living in the city, at least I can rejoice in the fact I have a place close by where I can pick up German treats and Winking Owl wine. You do what you can. But seriously, I would never move to a town that didn't have an Aldi — it's a big selling point. We pick up sweet potato chips (I could eat my weight in them), granola bars, pretzels for weekday work snacks, zucchini, sweet potatoes, baby carrots, red potatoes, hummus, a big tray of chicken thighs that are on sale, hamburger meat, buns, white rice, green beans, corn, prepackaged potstickers, and salad, and I talk my husband into a variety pack of Wild Grove ciders. Ciders are my weakness (okay, one of my weaknesses!), and they're perfect for fall. $83

    6 p.m. — After a dinner of pot stickers and salad, I finish up lesson plans for the week and settle in on the couch to watch a movie with my husband and the dogs. We love movies, especially older ones. One of the small perks of my husband working at the college is his access to their rather extensive movie collection where he can check out selections for free, so he is always bringing home movies for us to watch. Tonight we watch The Thin Man, a charming and funny 1934 mystery/rom-com. Everyone is lavishly rich, and I love the ex-detective's wife. I want to be her when I grow up (and once I come into my millions).

    9:30 p.m. — I lay at my clothes for tomorrow, set my alarm, and head to bed. I fall asleep while thinking about school tomorrow, as I usually do.

    Daily Total: $183

    Day Two

    5:40 a.m. — My alarm goes off, and I snooze it once until 5:45 before getting up. My husband gets up to let the dogs out of their room (they sleep in the laundry room) and start the coffee. He doesn't work today, so he'll spend the day writing and making sure the dogs get plenty of human time. I put on makeup. I don't use much, just cover up, mascara, and a bit of blush. I put my hair up and put on a dress. My husband sticks my breakfast in my purse (just a granola bar and a clementine) so I can eat it at work. I don't like eating this early, so I save it until I'm in my classroom. I head out the door around 6:20.

    7 a.m. — After my 30-minute drive to work, I'm in my classroom prepping. I eat my granola bar and make sure I have everything ready for my lessons. I teach 10th and 12th grade English and this is our second full week of school, so we're just starting to get into the meat and potatoes of the curriculum. I make last-minute copies as my students start to arrive.

    12 p.m. — Time for my 22-minute lunch break! I taught my four morning classes and have three more to go after this. The students have been well-behaved, but they're groggy since it's Monday. We are still in the honeymoon phase of the school year where students are, for the most part, trying to be the best versions of themselves, and I remind myself to enjoy it while it lasts. I eat my pretzels and hummus packed from home. Towards the end of my lunch break, a student stops by to ask if I want to buy a first aid kit for a fundraiser. I can never say no to fundraisers — the kids are always so sweet, and I'm pretty sure they see "sucker" written across my forehead from a mile away, so they're always hitting me up to buy stuff. At least this fundraiser is practical, and I'm pretty sure I don't own a first aid kit, so I put my name down for one. I buy the smaller version that's less expensive, but still feel glad contributing. $15

    3 p.m. — School's out! My eighth period is usually a great way to end the day — they are one of the few classes that find all my jokes funny (teaching is one part instruction and three parts theater, or however that quote goes) and we click well. I used to stay until at least 4 every day last year, but I am trying to leave earlier this year.

    4 p.m. — My husband has skillet potatoes, zucchini, and hamburgers ready to eat when I get home. (He does a lot of the cooking and is, in my opinion, a world class potato chef.) We eat between 4:30 and 5 pretty much every night like we are 100 years old. I am usually pretty hungry after a day of teaching and the scant lunches I pack. After dinner we take the dogs for a walk and watch Frasier.

    9:30 p.m. — I watch an episode of Gilmore Girls(my comfort show) before bed while my husband types for his dissertation. I say goodnight to him, lay out my clothes, and head to bed. My husband doesn't need nearly as much sleep as I do to keep both eyes open, so he will probably crawl into bed sometime around 11.

    Daily Total: $15

    Day Three

    5:40 a.m. — Alarm goes off and this time I don't snooze it. My husband gets up to start the coffee and tend to the dogs. He is working today, so he joins in the morning hustle as I put on makeup and get dressed. I grab my breakfast and lunch, and then we put the dogs in their room, give them each a milk bone and a kiss goodbye, and head out together. I say goodbye to C. and he drives to his college while I head to school.

    10 a.m. — I get a text from C. that his therapy went well. He tells me about the expense, since I am paying for it. I thank him for letting me know and continue teaching for the day. $100

    4 p.m. — Home again. C. is making dinner again, since he beat me home. (He's a saint.) We stand in the kitchen and talk about our days and whether we want to go to Mass. Usually we go to Mass at least once a week, but with our school years starting back up, we've been feeling a pull to stay home when we can. We feel somewhat guilty and decide to go on Sunday, no questions asked. The Catholic guilt is real. I jump in the shower, and then we eat salads with avocado and grilled zucchini when I get out.

    6 p.m. — We wander around outside with the dogs and watch our puppy chase birds. Don't worry, she never gets anywhere close to them and I'm pretty sure the birds land in our yard so they can laugh at her as they fly lazily away out of her reach. I go inside to get my book. (I'm rereading The Lord of the Rings series and I'm currently on The Two Towers.) I usually don't read on weeknights since, after a day of teaching high schoolers, staring at the wall often sounds much more preferable, but I want to take advantage of the cooler weather outside and make some headway on my book.

    Daily Total: $100

    Day Four

    5:40 a.m. — Alarm. Dogs jump on me while I put on makeup, husband helps me pack my breakfast (yogurt today, woohoo!) and lunch, and I'm out the door.

    7 a.m. — The curriculum director stops by my classroom to ask how it's going with the new online book technology we got this year for the sophomores. She wants me to teach the other English teacher how to do it, and I am happy to — once I figure out how to use it myself! I tell her I will meet with the teacher later in the week after I have a couple days to play around with it and try out the website in my lessons. I don't consider myself technologically savvy, but I love learning how to use new educational resources, especially when they help students access and enjoy text more. Less moaning and groaning from students whenever they hear the word "read" = happy teacher.

    12 p.m. — Lunch time. I quickly eat my pretzels, hummus, and leftover skillet potatoes while I reflect on the morning. My classes were a bit of a wash today, and the majority of our time was eaten up with setting up the online textbook. It's disappointing to spend so much time navigating technological difficulties, but we got it figured out.

    1 p.m. — Drama class. The students are practicing a scene today, and they are very unfamiliar with blocking and stage directions. We laugh and fumble our way through the script as students try to figure out how to say their lines and move around the stage at the same time. We reflect on what to do better for next time and call it a day.

    4:30 p.m. — Arrive home, and C. has chicken tempura made. We eat and watch Fraiser. After dinner, we pack lunches and dinners for the next two days. C. works Thursday and Friday each week, so he stays overnight Thursdays in his office. In an effort to save money, we pack him lunch and dinner for Thursday, and breakfast and lunch for Friday. I pack his Tupperware and check with him to make sure he thinks he has enough to eat. Luckily, C. is totally willing to eat leftovers, so we make it work.

    9:30 a.m. — C. and I go to bed at the same time, since he has to drive first thing in the morning tomorrow.

    Daily Total: $0

    Day Five

    5:40 a.m. — We are both up and moving. We grab our breakfast (granola bar and clementine again for me) and Tupperware lunches and head for the door after putting the dogs in their room and giving them their bones and a couple extra kisses. I won't see C. again until our weekends start, so I am a bit sad to see him go. We're still adjusting to this schedule.

    12 p.m. — Lunch time of pretzels and hummus. When I was a student teacher, a teacher told me about the educator diet, where you barely eat during the day and then get home in the evening and inhale your refrigerator. I am definitely following that pretty closely.

    3 p.m. — Final bell. I breathe a sigh of relief. I have this theory, developed last year in my first year of teaching and substantiated since then, that Thursdays are in fact the worst days for student behavior, not Fridays. I guess they can smell the weekend on the wind and are resentful that it's going to take them two more days to get there. I can understand that at least, but still, Thursdays are sometimes pretty rough.

    4 p.m. — I rush home to let the dogs out since my husband won't be home. I have $20 burning a hole in my wallet, and I am so tempted to stop and get extra treats for my weekly Gilmore Girls binge that I partake in when my husband isn't home, but I resist and remind myself I have ice cream in the freezer.

    6 p.m. — My Gilmore Girls binge is in full effect. I eat spaetzle and drink a cider. My dogs hang out with me on the bed and my puppy watches the TV. I think she has a crush on Logan.

    8:30 — Asleep surrounded by dogs (but no husband) at 8:30. Whoever said the life of a teacher wasn't glamorous?

    Daily Total: $0

    Day Six

    5:55 a.m. — I sleep in a bit, since today is a short day with the kiddos.

    6:30 a.m. — Out the door with my trusty granola bar and clementine for breakfast. It's drizzling a bit, and then as soon as a I get about 15 minutes into my drive, the sky opens up with torrential rain, hail, and whipping wind. I slow way down and wonder if I am going to die while also realizing I didn't bring an umbrella. The rain has not let up at all when I pull up to school and I sprint for it while my shoes fill up with water.

    7:30 a.m. — I help a student who came in early while attempting to dry my shoes with paper towels. Still soaking wet.

    1 p.m. — The kids are let out early, and I rejoice. The flooding and the impending weekend had them so amped up that it was a ton of work to contain them. I head off to an afternoon of professional development.

    4 p.m. — I stop to get gas and then head home. C. won't be home for another couple of hours, and I'm not hungry, so I take the dogs out for a long walk. We walk along the gravel roads until we get to the creek, which is really full from all the rain. The dogs take advantage of it by wading around. I send my husband pictures of the flooding and he calls and says he's eager to get home and see it. I walk home hot and sweaty but I enjoy the feeling of stretching my legs. $25

    6 p.m. — My husband gets home, and we eat grilled vegetables and chicken. Then we drive down to the creek again and meander around. We watch a train pass by and wave at the engineer.

    9:30 — Like all good Friday night revelers, we turn in early.

    Daily Total: $25

    Day Seven

    9 a.m. — Finally awake, I enjoy a more substantial breakfast of cereal and coffee while my husband and I watch Fraiser.

    12 p.m. — My husband reads for his research, and I hang with the dogs and nap.

    2 p.m. — We head to Aldi and get sweet potato chips, granola bars, avocado, salad, lemons, potato salad, hummus, pretzels, dish soap, and ice cream. $30

    4 p.m. — We eat an early dinner of salad and Indian chicken, and I have ice cream for dessert (but my husband doesn't because he's lactose intolerant). We watch Funny Face while we eat. I've never seen it, but I love Audrey Hepburn because I am basic.

    7 p.m. — Another long walk with the dogs, which they are very enthusiastic about. We walk and make plans for the rest of the long weekend (sing praise!) and stop the dogs from eating buggies (they are constantly trying to get extra "nutrition" this way). We get home watch a few episodes of Fraiser while I do some grading and brush the dogs.

    Daily Total: $30

    Money Diaries are meant to reflect individual women's experiences and do not necessarily reflect Refinery29's point of view. Refinery29 in no way encourages illegal activity or harmful behavior.

    The first step to getting your financial life in order is tracking what you spend — to try on your own, check out our guide to managing your money every day. For more money diaries, click here.

    Have a Money Diary you'd like to share? Right now, in addition to our ongoing diaries, we're looking for potential diarists along the following theme:

    Your Spending In Your State: We want to run one Money Diary from a different state each week. Want to rep your state? Submit here! In particular, we're looking for diaries from Hawaii, Iowa, Kansas, Kentucky, Maine, North Dakota, Rhode Island, and Mississippi.

    Calling all entrepreneurs: We want to hear from you! If you’re a freelancer or self-employed, we’d love to feature your Money Diary. Submit here.

    Have you been working for at least 8 years and seen your salary increase or fluctuate? If so, fill out this form for a chance to be featured on our Salary Story series!

    Have questions about how to submit or our publishing process? Read our Money Diaries FAQ doc here: r29.co/mdfaqs

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    In Refinery29's Sweet Digs, we take a look inside the sometimes small, sometimes spacious homes of millennial women. In today's episode, Chinae Alexander shows off her luxe New York City home.

    Do you live in Dallas or Austin and have some sweet digs you'd like to share? Submit yours here.

    "Reasonable" is relative — especially in major cities, especially when talking about rent. For influencer, blogger, and social media wiz Chinae Alexander, "reasonable" for a New York apartment is roughly $3,300 for 1,000 square feet. It helps, she says, when she works from home, too. "I moved in May 2018," Alexander says. "I was living downstairs and wanted to upgrade into a bigger spot with more light."

    The resulting home is one filled with art, soft mood lighting, and floor-to-ceiling windows — plus a spacious dining space for people to gather, mingle, and eat. "I love people, and having people feel like they have a space where they can come, be taken care of, and feel at home is just an amazing gift to be able to provide in a city like NYC," Alexander says. Watch the video above to tour her space in 360-degrees.

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    With that top of mind, we've teamed up with Clarks to prove that you don't have to compromise when it comes to shoes that can offer both comfort and style — in fact, far from it. Elevate your aesthetic (and, in turn, your hustle) with footwear made for the girl on the go. Think: slip-on suede styles with rubber soles, lace-up leather ankle booties, and breathable burgundy boots ready for absolutely anything. Check out all the versatile styles ahead, and snag yourself some shoes that can do double duty.

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    Update: Ahead of the launch of Moschino's collaboration with H&M on November 8, designer Jeremy Scott offered a first look at the collection on Instagram. On Friday, Scott shared a photo of Gigi Hadid, shot by Steven Meisel, writing "I created this collection as a gift to my fans." A second image features models Imaan Hammam, Rianne Van Rompaey, Soo Joo, Vittoria Ceretti, and Stella Maxwell dressed head-to-toe in metallics, leather, and some over-the-top accessories (just look at those peace sign earrings). Given this is Moschino, though, we expect nothing less.

    This article was originally published April 15, 2018.

    If you are obsessed with Coachella fashion, then you've probably heard of designer Jeremy Scott. Friend to the stars and 12-time Coachella attendee, the creative director of Moschino is known for his over-the-top aesthetic and just-as-extra celebrity clientele.

    In an announcement made by model Gigi Hadid at Moschino’s annual Coachella party (see what we mean), it wasn't his casual #nipslip that made headlines — the areola has its own Instagram, by the way — but the news that Scott was revealed as H&M’s latest collaborator, with a capsule collection dropping on November 8. A more formal statement was reported Sunday in Vogue.

    For those familiar with Scott's work for Moschino and his namesake label, diehard fans probably saw this one coming: Scott has admitted to designing an entire collection using fashion inspiration drawn from the music festival. In fact, he considers Coachella “the most glam hands-down.” Part of Scott’s motivation to work with H&M was his desire to reach younger fans that can't afford high end fashion.

    Of his reason for joining forces with the mega retailer, Scott told Vogue, “This collaboration makes me feel like I’m able to give something again. Lots of young people love my clothes...and we make phone cases and little things like that, but in order to have a ‘lewk,’ I love that this is now something that will be affordable."

    The designer made a name for himself while working with icons including Björk, Beyoncé, Madonna, Kanye West, Lady Gaga, and more, with his collections often inspired by American history and pop culture. Moschino’s fall/winter 2018 presentation, for example, was Scott's tongue-in-cheek take on an anti-Trump sentiment, where he questioned whether the late Jackie O'Nassis was an alien or an android.

    In addition to Moschino, Scott has also designed for Adidas and Ugg and he's the latest in the growing list of notable designers H&M has enlisted to design their hit, one-off collections, including Alexander Wang, Maison Martin Margiela, Jimmy Choo, and Versace.

    Moschino x H&M will include womenswear and menswear, with casual to dressier "lewks" ranging from $25 to $300. The collection stands to be a merge of the affordable fashion H&M shoppers have grown to expect along with the trendy fashion Moschino is loved for.

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    We love a good sale. Which is why we're always on the prowl for a worthy steal a.k.a. ones that make you feel like a champion shopper, slaying style on a budget. Our brand new Sale Stalker collection is a shopping page devoted entirely to the best of the best on-sale finds, refreshed daily.

    Weeding through the endless stacks of online sales can be an exhausting, and daunting, task — there's a reason it's called bargain hunting. So to save you the time and effort, we're tapping our editors to curate the top sale picks of the day that are worthy of adding to cart.

    From the latest jewelry trend markdowns to the going, going, gone pair of boots you've been eyeing and more, Sale Stalker is here to make a stylish wardrobe more affordable with a round-up of our must-have discounted style buys. So spare yourself the headache of sifting through your latest overflow of e-mail promo deals and bookmark Sale Stalker, asap.

    And once you're done scoping out your new outfit, be sure to stop by our Home Sale Stalker page, too, for all the best decor, tech, and furniture goodies.

    At Refinery29, we’re here to help you navigate this overwhelming world of stuff. All of our market picks are independently selected and curated by the editorial team. If you buy something we link to on our site, Refinery29 may earn commission.

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    Between Chanel's beach-themed extravaganza and Saint Laurent sending its models down a runway covered in water, there was no shortage of moments from Paris Fashion Week (and Fashion Month as a whole) that had us holding the "record" button on Instagram Stories. But if there was one moment that truly had people talking, it was Hedi Slimane's debut at Celine.

    After Slimane's first collection, so many members of the fashion community were mourning the end of an era — the Phoebe Philo era. It was only a matter of time, then, before someone found a way to immortalize the designer's iconic tenure at Céline.

    Toronto-based Gabrielle Boucinha launched Instagram account @oldceline in early September. Since then, Boucinha, who graduated in the spring from Ryerson University and aspires to work in fashion editorial, has gained a loyal following of fashion insiders (as of publishing time, it had over 55,000 followers and counting). The account, which is an ode to the creative director's time at the iconic French house, couldn't have come at a better time, as bloggers and publications shared their (often emotional, offended, frustrated) thoughts in book-long Instagram stories and captions, and even posting photos of their favorite Phoebe Philo pieces. Before we knew it, we saw the likes of Pernille Teisbaek and Nasiba Adilova tagging @oldceline, and it became a way for all of us processing this drastic change to come together. It highlights a singular, shared respect for what Céline once was — and is no longer.

    Below, we caught up with Boucinha to talk about the most timely new Instagram account of fashion month and the end of Céline as we know it.

    When did you start the account @oldceline?
    "I launched the account on September 3, at the start of fashion month, and the following has grown rapidly since then. It was crazy to see so many of my favorite people in fashion following the account, from Virgil Abloh and Tommy Ton to Julie Pelipas, Camille Charriere, Pernille Teisbaek, Ezra Petronio, and Leandra Medine. I really want to work in editorial, so seeing my favorite writers and editors tagging and following the account was pretty special."

    Can you tell us a bit more about why you started the account and the thinking behind it?
    "For me, it was somewhat of a place to store all the images and inspirations that I love from Phoebe's time at Céline. I just wanted to start to get everything all in one place. I didn’t think the following would have grown into what it's at today — I just set out to do it for personal reasons — but now I’m very excited about what I can do with this platform!"

    What exactly did you love about Phoebe Philo?
    "It may seem drastic, but I like to compare Phoebe Philo to Gabrielle Chanel. In my eyes, she's actually even better. Phoebe Philo empowered women, turning Céline into one of the most coveted labels.

    "I had the Joan Didion campaign pages pinned above my desk during school; that campaign might be what inspired me most to ensure that I’m always pushing myself to think outside the box, and to one day use fashion to make a positive change. Phoebe changed the meaning of the word 'chic' and proved that an interest in fashion does not lower one's intelligence or keep her from having other interests. She designed for the modern woman.

    "Phoebe’s Céline was all about being confident, strong, proud, and powerful. You can apply that ethos to everything in life, and I think Phoebe’s Céline had this empowering culture behind it. Her version of Céline promoted a less is more approach, and the idea of empowerment through natural beauty. It was very liberating to see a fashion house present women with what they actually want to wear. We don't want to wear a tight sequined mini dress. We want to wear a dragging-on-the-floor dress with sneakers. At least, I do. She challenged the meaning of sexy. Her combination of masculine and feminine designs that shouted female empowerment was truly iconic."

    What is your vision for the Instagram account?
    "I am almost done creating the website oldceline.com, where I’ll be posting the merch collection I’ve been working on. I’m very excited for it to be completed! I’d also love to sell secondhand Céline from the Phoebe era as well."

    What are your thoughts on Hedi Slimane?
    "He is a talented designer, of course. But Hedi has a very specific dark, rock and roll aesthetic. I don’t think it’s innovative to carry the same 'look' to another house, and especially not Céline. The pieces from his debut collection at Celine exactly mirrored some from his last collection at Saint Laurent. Where's the creativity?

    "I was disappointed by his first collection, but nothing he did was surprising. It's not that I ever thought he could replace or live up to Phoebe, but this collection was the opposite of everything that the brand has stood for up until this point. These new designs don't even compare when looked at next to images of Phoebe's collections, which were strong, powerful, and beautiful with minimal effort. They were for women dressed for themselves and no one else (unlike Hedi's new pieces which still seem to dress women, well, for men)."

    What do you hope for the future of your account — and for the future of Celine?
    "I hope the future of the account provides a platform for all Philophiles worldwide to celebrate what we had with the old Céline. I don’t think there has been this level of backlash in a while, even despite how often creative changes happen in fashion. Old Céline had such loyal customers because it was truly unique and progressive and was exactly what fashion (and the world in general) needed. It’s not even about Hedi. It’s about what women wanted, and now have collectively lost."

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    We love a good sale. Which is why we’re always on the prowl for a worthy steal — a.k.a. ones that make you feel like a champion shopper, slaying style on a budget. Our brand new Sale Stalker collection is a shopping page devoted entirely to the best of the best on-sale finds, refreshed daily.

    Why buy full-priced goods for your apartment when there are so many discounted finds to be scooped up from our favorite stores? Because keeping up with the home sale Joneses can feel like a second job. Instead of weeding through an overwhelming amount of sites, pages, and products to find that unique piece for the right price, now you can shop our top picks for the trendiest home finds on sale today.

    We've scouted out everything your dream home desires: from funky furniture to unique decor and more, all with freshly-slashed $$$$ tags. In need of a boutique-quality rug for a fraction of the price? We'll find it. How about a bespoke apartment warming steal? Done. Making stylish spaces affordable no longer needs to be your night job — save that time and energy for your day gig by checking out our curated Sale Stalker home hit-list.

    And once you're done scooping up all that new apartment swag, be sure to stop by our Sale Stalker fashion page, too, for the most stylish wardrobe steals of the season.

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    At the start of a new season, especially one with as many buy-worthy new arrivals as fall, it's easy to get a little (okay, a lot) carried away. There are just so many options — and we want them all. Jackets, trousers, boots...and that's just the beginning. You still have to think about new colors, fabrics, and patterns to introduce into your freshly fall-ified wardrobe. It adds up. So to make the process a bit more affordable, we're keeping the most important fall essential (sweaters, duh!) under $100. Wanna know how? They're all from Zara.

    Like everything else at Zara, their knitwear holds a special place in our hearts. Not only are the prices not too shabby, but we don't have to scrap on style just to save. Whether you're in the market for a cropped sweater or an oversized turtleneck, guaranteed it's somewhere in the mix ahead. So go on, splurge on those cowboy boots you've been eyeing or finally invest in a big faux fur coat. You deserve it after all of this responsible saving.

    At Refinery29, we’re here to help you navigate this overwhelming world of stuff. All of our market picks are independently selected and curated by the editorial team. If you buy something we link to on our site, Refinery29 may earn commission.

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    In a time of great turmoil for women and marginalized populations, people are taking to the streets, to their congressional offices, and to their social media feeds to protest. While most women are making their voices louder, Cat Power is doing what she’s done with grace and casual virtuosity for two decades now: looking quietly inward.

    On Wanderer, her tenth album, Cat Power explores the same sonic territory she’s occupied since 2003’s You Are Free; it is driven by straightforward guitar melodies, tambourines, and her whisper-quiet voice. Since her 2012 album, Sun, Cat Power, whose real name is Chan Marshall, has been diagnosed with an autoimmune disorder and become the mother to a son. It’s also her first album since 1996 not to be released on her longtime record label, Matador. Creative differences led her in search of a new home, and she landed at Domino Records, home to the Arctic Monkeys and Franz Ferdinand. For Marshall, there has long been a freedom in the male-dominated world of indie rock that has allowed her to write and produce her own records, which is also the case with Wanderer. If Marshall’s music tells us anything about how it feels to be a woman in music with autonomy, it tells us there’s a sense of peace to it.

    Marshall does explore some of the day’s politics on the album. On “In Your Face,” the divisive nature of discourse among political ideologies (“In the age of military, you are engaged / With such fanfare activity / You let them do things as they please / In a grave, you’re accounted for / If you were red, you’d be spoken for / Your color blue is grey"). Empowerment, out of the ashes of a broken relationship, also gets a hard look from Marshall, in a duet with Lana Del Rey on “Woman” ("Your cage is like a weapon, / a tool to get me, shaped and fit for the other ones / Well my cage is a weapon, it’s perfect for me / It’s the one suit you seem to never see"). And even economic inequality bears mention, in the tale of “Robin Hood” (“Big fat cat, biggest piece of the pie, high top hat, leaves no disguise / Who robbing, he robbing you.”). Her cover of Rihanna’s “Stay” has probably gotten the most press, and is an imaginative reinterpretation of the song that makes it somehow slightly less morose but still terribly sad.

    The gist of the album’s sensibility, however, can be found in the title track, which serves as both intro and outro; Marshall is a wanderer in the world who stumbles into the various scenarios and setups of the day, only to wander right back out. There’s a weary listlessness to both the music and the lyrics, that mimics my worst days in the current news cycle. Marshall captures the feeling of “it’s all too much” and somehow puts them into musical vignettes that are far more angst-ridden than her dulcet voice belies.

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    Calling all R29 loyalists! If you've ever wanted a way to wear your love for our brand on your sleeve (or chest, or back), then we're stoked to share that we've officially launched a merch shop.

    From our new Money Diaries book to the R29er tee, we're on a mission to take our Refinery29 DNA from the screen to IRL. Starting today, you can shop our new collection of comfy merch on Amazon. The unisex collection of hoodies and tees feature an array of in-house created designs and slogans that embrace our freak flag fly high mentality. Now you too, can be a part of #InsideR29.

    Apart from our in-house creations, we also launched a special capsule based off our most recent 29Rooms: "Expand Your Reality," featuring exclusive designs by Shawna X. Find the entire Refinery29 collection at our #InsideR29 shop page.

    At Refinery29, we’re here to help you navigate this overwhelming world of stuff. All of our market picks are independently selected and curated by the editorial team. If you buy something we link to on our site, Refinery29 may earn commission.

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    After my first job at MTV working as a music programmer, I can't stop trying to matchmake people with music they might like. So, I wrote a book calledRecord Collecting for Girls and started interviewing musicians. The Music Concierge is a column where I share music I'm listening to that you might enjoy, with a little context. Follow me on Twitter or Facebook, or leave me a comment below and tell me what you're listening to this week.

    Jessie Ware "Overtime"

    In 2012, for at least a full year, I obsessively listened to Jessie Ware's debut album, Devotion. It was full of songs inspired by late '80s and early '90s dance floor throwback jams of the sort that now litter Ryan Murphy's TV shows. She pivoted to a more ballad-y place for her last two romantic albums, but this new track from her? Back on that dance floor shit. And I am way into it, because I need to dance like a maniac to sweat out the anger the last few weeks in the news have made me feel. The track has strong Lisa Lisa and Cult Jam vibes, but as produced by Jimmy Jam and Terry Lewis working on some early Janet Jackson records —meaning: sultry af, but also pop af.

    Sharon Van Etten "Comeback Kid"

    You know what? For this track, I'm going to let Sharon Van Etten tell it to you in her own words: "I want to be a mom, a singer, an actress, go to school, but yeah, I have a stain on my shirt, oatmeal in my hair and I feel like a mess, but I'm here. Doing it. This record is about pursuing your passions." After a few listens, I'm feeling passionate about her deadpan delivery, fresh as the first time I heard it, and those great synth sounds on the chorus of this song. Another one for my dance playlist!

    Justine Skye "Build"

    What does the perfect man look like for you? Do you have a list in mind of things that always make you always swipe left? Do you have dealbreakers? Justine Skye eloquently runs down her list in this track, only to come to the realization that since she can't make the perfect man she'll work on making herself better instead. Probably the most progressive love song I've heard in a minute and with a hell of a beat — which sounds like something Raphael Saadiq would have wrought — driving it forward at a steady pace.

    Lea Thomas "Upstream"

    And now for a little shot of pretty: Lea Thomas reminds me of Joni Mitchell or Joan Baez. She's got that gorgeous, smooth voice and the picking fingers of a truly inspired artist. Thomas played nearly all the instruments on this track (and her whole album), which is impressive for any artist. It's not easy to go from this sort of intricate guitar work to a slide guitar to a bass to drums. But it is empowering.

    Savannah Conley "Never Be Ourselves"

    Savannah Conley is working out her Nancy Sinatra dreams and Dusty Springfield wishes with this video, but I'll be damned if her vocals aren't a head turner. That somber timbre in her voice is offset by a guitar line in a major key, creating the perfect wistful song in the country/folk tradition. Save this one for your next breakup playlist.

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    To whom is the beginning of fall crueler: the kid who has to fill their backpack with heavy books and freshly sharpened pencils and haul ass to another first day of school, or the adult whose life is pretty much the same, just colder? On the one hand, shopping for new clothes and school supplies when you're 12 can bring about some fleeting sense of materialistic joy that will be long gone by the time the first Milky Pen runs dry; on the other, being an adult means... you don't have to go to school.

    Anyway, both are bad — different, but bad. But if you're too old to get a kick out of the simple delight of a fresh three-ring binder, all is not lost: Shopping for fall skin care can have much of the same appeal (though wouldn't it be nice if your mom was still footing the bill this time around?). Ulta Beauty is teeming with new arrivals to kick off sweater season right — and, with many of the products ahead ringing in under $20, you can have your Milky Pens and your all-natural facial cleanser, too.

    At Refinery29, we’re here to help you navigate this overwhelming world of stuff. All of our market picks are independently selected and curated by the editorial team. If you buy something we link to on our site, Refinery29 may earn commission.

    The most luxurious night cream (or night balm, if you will) to hit shelves this fall is packed full of nourishing Manuka honey, to leave skin softer, firmer, and more resilient over time — and feels much richer than its $19.99 price tag would imply.



    L'Oréal Age Perfect Hydra Nutrition Honey Night Balm, $19.98, available at Ulta Beauty

    Like a liquid bandage for your breakouts, this innovative treatment forms a near-invisible film over the affected area, creating a clear canvas for makeup while crushing zits with a potent 2% concentration of salicylic acid.



    Almay Clear Complexion Blemish Armor, $11.99, available at Ulta Beauty

    Thanks to a combination of skin-smoothing enzymes, a probiotic complex, and lactic acid that works to slough away dull cells without triggering irritation, these resurfacing pads are proof that an exfoliating treatment can be both potent and gentle enough for sensitive skin types.



    Elemis Dynamic Resurfacing Facial Pads, $59, available at Ulta Beauty

    Part skin care, part category-transcending complexion magic, this hydrating mist does much more than give skin a hit of moisture — it's infused with light-reflecting properties that impart the perfect amount of radiance ( not sparkle) to prep for makeup or act as a glow-enhancing setting spray... or just bail you out of your 3 p.m. workday rut.



    Iconic London Prep Set Glow, $25, available at Ulta Beauty

    Why use a regular facial oil when you can use a facial oil that has chamomile flowers floating in it, and a 100% pure plant-based ingredients list with camellia seed, jojoba oil, and vitamin E to help heal damaged skin as it hydrates, and that also looks really, really pretty?



    Teami Blends Repair Tea Infused Facial Oil, $40, available at Ulta Beauty

    There was a time when shine-busting toners for the acne-prone went hand-in-hand with the bonus side effect of dry, tight, thoroughly agitated skin. Ditch your old astringents (if you haven't already) and swap them out for this one instead: The witch hazel is ideal for keeping pores clear without that squeaky-clean sensation, and kaolin clay and lactic acid work to regulate oil production and cut down on blackheads.



    Philosophy Clear Days Ahead Mattifying Clay Toner, $22, available at Ulta Beauty

    Sometimes in this life you just need a solid, straightforward cleanser to rely on, like a steadfast old friend. This is that cleanser, a creamy (but not heavy) formula that feels luxe, smells incredible, and leaves skin fresh and clean without frills but with plenty of vitamin E and soothing botanical extracts.



    Rebels Refinery Advanced Clear Skin Face Wash, $9.49, available at Ulta Beauty

    Between the intensely rich, silky texture and a satisfyingly clean formula that counts coconut oil, lanolin, avocado oil, evening primrose, sea buckthorn, shea butter, and not much else among its ingredients, this cream — which doubles as an overnight treatment — could easily be sold for three times its price. But it isn't, so just buy three instead.



    The Better Skin Co. Amaze Balm, $36, available at Ulta Beauty

    Maximum-strength exfoliating peels are not usually described as "cute" — but then they're not usually these 10 tiny but mighty capsules filled with fruit enzymes, lactic acid, and assorted AHA extracts, which come in their own little travel kit so you can bring them everywhere you go, if that's something you want to do.



    Dermalogica Rapid Reveal Peel, $85, available at Ulta Beauty

    The bar-soap renaissance continues, with this aesthetically-appealing spin on the shower classic. With fair-trade shea butter, activated charcoal, volcanic sand, and blue-green algae among the powerful ingredients that make up this bar, it's one more reason to finally buy that $24 soap dish you've been eyeing.



    Oars + Alps Exfoliating Blue Charcoal Bar Soap, $14, available at Ulta Beauty

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    Ever since the fateful 1999 Vogue feature that credited her with “The Return of the Sexy Model,” Gisele Bündchen has been a Very Big Deal. Nearly twenty years later, the Brazilian superstar has walked hundreds of runways, worn millions of dollars worth of incredible clothes, made a ton of money, and inspired countless women everywhere to beg their hairstylists for "beachy waves, just like Gisele's."

    Gisele may have effectively retired from the modeling biz in 2015, but the A-lister has been spending a lot of time in the spotlight these past couple of months while doing the rounds to promote her tell-all memoir, Lessons: My Path to a Meaningful Life, which was officially released October 2nd. Perhaps Gisele's finest hour was not her mid-'00s modeling heyday — maybe it's happening as we speak. She's on her path; now she's ready to help you find yours. (Save us, Gisele!)

    This week, we celebrate Gisele's completion of the path to published author. With that, we also celebrate all the beauty products she uses and the talented team of experts she employs, as well as the offhanded comments she makes once in a while that make you realize, Wow, she really did just wake up looking like that.

    Ahead, a tribute to the unique approach one very beautiful person takes to becoming even more beautiful. Don't get too excited: This is not something you can just print out and take to your hairdresser.

    First things first: Gisele’s not-so-secret weapon is her longtime hairstylist and BFF Harry Josh. Josh launched a collection of hot tools a few years back, graciously making his expertise more accessible for anyone who is not Gisele (or any of his other famous clientele, which includes Miranda Kerr and Rose Byrne). The blowdryer from the line is the stuff of legend, but as Gisele’s Instagram will attest, the professional-grade curling wand is what’ll really give you those beachy waves.



    Harry Josh Pro Tools 2-in-1 Ceramic Marcel Curling Iron - 1", $175, available at Target

    The other secret to Gisele’s hair, she claims, is lots of Pantene Pro-V products, which is not at all surprising when you consider that she’s been an ambassador for the brand since 2013. “If I’m at home, I wait until it’s almost dry, twist it up into a topknot, spritz it with Pantene hairspray, and when I pull it out I’m left with nice, loose waves,” she told Telegraph. Unfortunately for anyone holding out for her big bombshell hair secret, the real (more like real disappointing) answer is probably just genetics — but considering how affordable Pantene is, it can’t hurt to try.



    Pantene Airspray Hairspray, $5.99, available at Target

    Surprise! The face of Pantene is also the face of Chanel’s Les Beiges line, which focuses on the kind of minimalist, no-makeup makeup beloved by people who are already very beautiful. In a video tutorial she filmed to promote the collection, Gisele names this creamy blush stick as her favorite product for “bringing back the color” to her face. Solid advice.



    Chanel Les Beiges Healthy Glow Sheer Colour Stick, $45, available at Chanel

    “My complexion is delicate, so I have to use things that won’t irritate it,” the supermodel told Elle in a 2007 interview. “I switch moisturizers often, but I’m faithful to the way I take off my makeup: Lancôme's pink foaming cleanser.” While Lancôme has since taken the cleanser out of the pink bottle and placed it into this tube, the formula remains the same — a rich, luxurious cream that dissolves makeup and leaves skin feeling soft and fresh.



    Lancôme Crème Mousse Confort Creamy Foaming Cleanser, $26, available at Nordstrom

    None of us are immune to having our favorite beauty products discontinued, including Gisele, whose blemish-fighting product of choice, Nelson’s Acne Gel, is no longer sold in the United States. “I had a really horrible pimple on my nose, and a makeup artist gave me Nelson’s Acne Gel,” she told Elle of the product. “I kept putting it on, and my pimple went away. I was like, This is great. It doesn't burn your skin.” This gentle clarifying formula is another product that will make your pimple go away without burning your skin — plus, the clean, organic ingredients are exactly the sort of thing one would imagine Gisele putting on her face.



    Tata Harper Clarifying Spot Solution, $35, available at Sephora

    “I love organic products. This cream is so natural, you can eat it!” Gisele once told InStyle of this eye treatment — which, while it is formulated with certified organic ingredients consisting mainly of aloe vera and essential oils, you cannot and should not eat.



    Dr. Alkaitis Organic Eye Crème, $67, available at CAP Beauty

    You may or may not recall that, all the way back in the year 2010, Gisele launched her own natural skin-care brand, Sejaa, which was inspired by the model’s love of using mud as a skin-care treatment. “When I was a teenager, I had pimples — oh, God, every time someone looked at my face I thought they were looking at my pimples,” she told Vogue at the time. “I put mud on my face to dry them out, and it worked.” The line was short-lived, but this bestselling mask is the next best thing. (Or better, actually. This mask is really good.)



    Peter Thomas Roth IRISH MOOR MUD MASK, $58, available at Peter Thomas Roth

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    “You get authority from the stuff you put on the runway,” wrote Cathy Horyn in her joint review of the Maison Margiela and Saint Laurent collections at the recently-concluded Paris Fashion Week. Designers are not just arbiters of skirt lengths and bell sleeves; the most prominent ones can, through their clothing, encapsulate and influence female selfhood. Fashion can be approached as a delightful diversion, but it does not exist separately from the realities of what is going on in the world — and a lot going on in the world right now is unimaginably grim.

    Over the course of this past Fashion Month, the runways unveiling the spring/summer 2019 collections featured some stereotypically "sexy" clothes — mini shorts, teetering heels, skin-baring pieces. Given the continuing conversations around misogyny, consent, and gender equality, contemporary identity is shifting — and so is the attire that goes with it. Diet Prada wrote, with not a little contempt, in an Instagram post: “Maybe there was something in the @thombrowneny show notes we didn't see, but we're finding it hard to grasp the need to show women literally bound and gagged on the runway at this particular moment in time. In an era where women’s accusations are consistently doubted and dissected at every step, this showing reads as tone deaf. If this was somehow a response to end the silencing of women, it missed the mark.” (Some of the hashtags to match: #metoo #registertovote #callyoursenator #mask #horror).

    At Hedi Slimane’s Celine debut, Vanessa Friedman mourned — like many — the loss of Phoebe Philo: “She gave Celine an identity that for women meant a great deal, because it was clearly for them, not an image of them,” she discerned. It was, ultimately, “something that spoke more generously to those with multi-dimensional lives” (as opposed to, as she compared with a slight jab, the “pouty, infantilizing” looks by Slimane.) Slimane’s collection for the label instigated not just an aesthetic shove but a psychological one: sophisticated women were bulldozed for a more juvenile look. It was yet another instance of trivializing women when we want to be considered with more subtlety. “Slimane doesn’t seem particularly interested in addressing the mundane issues in a woman’s life,” Robin Givhan wrote. “His designs are about his vision.” “His vision” — ah, the bull-headed men thinking they’re the gatekeepers of what’s best for everyone, especially female bodies. It’s front row ostrich ignorance.

    Celine spring/summer 2019.Photo: Estrop/Contributor/Getty Images.
    Celine spring/summer 2019.Photo: Estrop/Contributor/Getty Images.

    Viewing women’s sexuality through a masculine perspective is a problem. It’s time to parse with greater severity what is empowering to women versus pleasing to men. Not in order to police fashion, but rather to reach into the underbelly and ask: What do you want? The accent should go to the third word: What do you want? A woman wants to be desirable to a certain extent, but what does she want to say about herself? Being sexy might not look the same when that question is deconstructed with honesty. This is when we realize: MY GOD, put women in charge of fashion houses so they’re designing for their peers.

    “Sexiness” used to be equated with bad taste — admittedly, in the present tense too — but it is now maybe considered, more than that, outside the zeitgeist. Anthony Vaccarello, Saint Laurent’s creative director, pulled heavily from the well of YSL's 1960s and ‘70s louche archive, when women luxuriated in the sexual revolution. Friedman remarked that “showing the most leg, the most cleavage, the most sheer, made for a revolutionary statement back in the 20th century, but not a particularly nuanced or relevant one in the 21st… it was hard not to think that as women have moved on, so should the clothes that allow them to express their physicality.” Does a model outfitted in feathered pasties (see: Look 51 for Saint Laurent), or wearing two oversized little-girl bows across her chest (see: Look 41 for Saint Laurent) feel empowered? It would be somewhat surprising to hear. That's not to say women should cower or refrain from wearing whatever the fuck they want to celebrate their own bodies. “It’s that thing: whether you’d actually want to dress the way Vaccarello sees women or not, you have to defend the right of those who do,” wrote Sarah Mower in her review of the Saint Laurent collection for Vogue. Moreover, sexual assault is never triggered by what we a woman was wearing — that’s not its problem.

    In her review of Dries Van Noten, Friedman stated: “it is almost a shock to see a collection made with a three-dimensional woman and not a two-dimensional image in mind.” What a depressing sentence! Designers cannot dress the female body today as if the spike in feminist activity never happened. There are designers like Maria Grazia Chiuri at Dior and the ever-odd Rick Owens who provide different templates that strengthen female identity instead of flattening it. It was nearly half a century ago that feminist British film theorist Laura Mulvey coined the term “male gaze” in an essay, “Visual Pleasure and Narrative Cinema.” She wrote: “In their traditional exhibitionist role women are simultaneously looked at and displayed, with their appearance coded for strong visual and erotic impact.” A twitch has been imposed upon the male gaze. A woman's erotic impact is not all she is.

    The reclamation of anger in culture and pop culture means that the opposite of “sexy” is not “covered-up” or “demure” — it’s self-possessed. Women are requiring crucial, large-scale change. Expressing sexuality is our right, yet our priorities have shifted as lawmakers are coming for our reproductive rights, our political agency. We’re trying to redress just how starkly underrepresented we are professionally, across all industries. We’re ringing the alarm because we’ve been excluded and cast aside. Quintessential political subversions and revisions — from the energizing surge of Women’s Marches to deeply reported investigations of all-powerful predators — forced many women to pivot from their quotidian complacency pretty damn quickly. Those who feel unaffected and complacent within this context are not putting forth anything interesting (or capable of empathy, for that matter).

    Saint Laurent spring/summer 2019.Photo: Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho/Getty Images.
    Saint Laurent spring/summer 2019.Photo: Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho/Getty Images.

    What does it mean to be daring today? Rebecca Traister wrote: “Women — 27 years after Anita Hill, 12 years after Tarana Burke’s Me Too, and one year into #MeToo — are refusing to stop speaking about their experiences, their perspectives, their memories. By doing so, they’re expanding the boundaries of what kinds of stories must be taken seriously — and bringing a much fuller picture of female humanity into view.” To be daring is to voice harrowing, previously-muffled realities about men who have silenced women, about business structures that have systematically paid women less despite doing good work. This exposure that requires risk is not skin-baring: It’s emotional luggage, exiting the strongbox of the psyche even at the risk of being pilloried by misogynists and trolls.

    Fashion needs more anarchy. This is an industry powered by, and targeted at, women, and yet it still doesn't serve them well. It is an industry with a noxious amount of environmental waste and racism, and it keeps promising to do better while ultimately doing very little in practice.

    There was no oracle to anticipate that Paris Fashion Week would dovetail with the debate over a Supreme Court nomination or as Bill Cosby was sentenced for drugging and sexually assaulting Andrea Constand. Moreover, these phenomena color a uniquely American political landscape: #MeToo is lived differently in Europe than in the United States, which has its own history and evolution about attitudes towards sex and sexiness. But fashion is a global industry, and rethinking female identity is not specific to one territory; it’s a cultural conversation that has been extending, and needs to extend, everywhere. There is plenty of local available realities to draw from — like the public sexual harassment laws on France’s own terrain — and mull over and utilize.

    "Sexiness" on the runways doesn't reflect the way the world is evolving, and the collective industry needs to reconsider how it's conceiving and selling perceptions of women back to them. Hannah Gadsby is rethinking what comedy is; what art history is. Edward Enninful has recast who is featured in a magazine. Illustrator Jasjyot Singh Hans draws fashion illustrations that accommodate the bodies the runway still won’t. That is part of what gives a designer their authority: not just a presence on runways and through billboards, but re-considering how they can provoke new thoughts about what the heck is going on.

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    While here in the States, we're sitting at the edges of our seats thanks to all the Kavanaugh news, Melania Trump seems to be having the time of her life traveling through Africa.

    Currently, she's in Nairobi, Kenya, where she met with the country's first lady, Margaret Kenyatta to discuss maternal health and children's education, traveled to Nairobi National Park and played with baby elephants, and visited a home for children whose mothers have been imprisoned.

    FLOTUS danced and sang with the children, which you can watch in the video below, and handed out Be Best blankets and teddy bears.

    Melania really does look happier than we've ever seen her with these baby elephants.

    Before Kenya, Melania visited Malawi, where she met for tea with first lady Gertrude Mutharika and watched traditional performances. She is the first U.S. first lady to ever visit Malawi.

    "The American press was very excited to see the zebras meandering on what would be the Malawian equivalent to the White House lawn. The local press was chill," noted New York Times White House reporter Katie Rogers, who is embedded on Melania's trip.

    There were a few protestors in Malawi, too (the pool reporter noted that they were all white). "A woman held up a sign that said #MELANIATOO, with the 'ME' in her name in bold black. Another couple held up a sign that said 'Welcome to Malawi. #NOTASHITHOLE!'" a reference to comments the president had made about African countries, which he has denied saying. Another sign said, 69 Days Past the Deadline to Reunite Families, a reference to the Trump administration’s zero-tolerance policy that resulted in the separation of thousands of children from their families.

    Melania also visited a primary school and gave out Be Best soccer balls. According to the White House, some 8,000 children attend the school taught by 75 teachers. The average class size is 110. FLOTUS visited with second- and third-graders, touring a classroom and attending an English class.

    The White House said it chose Malawi as her destination because of its high poverty rate and the difficulties girls have in accessing education. Melania learned about USAID's education initiatives in the country.

    Before Malawi, Melania toured Cape Coast Castle in Ghana, a large former slave-holding facility where slaves were held in cramped, lightless dungeons.

    "It’s great. It’s very emotional," she said when asked about her visit. "This is a very special place. I will never forget the incredible experience and the stories that I heard from the [tour guide]. The dungeons that I saw...what happened so many years ago, it's really a tragedy."

    She visited the Greater Accra Regional Hospital, where she watched a baby get weighed and learned about the vitamin supplements that are given to newborns. She also visited the NICU. She also privately had tea with Rebecca Akufo-Addo, the first lady of Ghana.

    Meanwhile, the president was egging on the Brett Kavanaugh confirmation, calling protestors "very rude elevator screamers" in his inimitable way. "The very rude elevator screamers are paid professionals only looking to make Senators look bad. Don’t fall for it! Also, look at all of the professionally made identical signs. Paid for by Soros and others. These are not signs made in the basement from love! #Troublemakers," he tweeted. (There's no evidence that any of the protestors are paid or professionals.)

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